Frame Building

During January we can't do much in the apiary so instead we do inside work; make plans for next year, build and repair hive bodies, make frames, that kind of thing. Since I haven't finalized my plan for next year I haven't placed my order for hive bodies yet. But I do have a bunch of frames that need to be made for this coming year so here are 11 easy steps to build a frame. Once you get the hang of it you can do 2 or 3 at a time. Or find or make a frame jig and with a air compressor and brad nailer you can make 5 to 10 at a time.

Step 1 - The Parts
There are 4 pieces to a frame: the top bar, bottom bar, and 2 end bars. I use wedge top bars and grooved bottom bars. There are other types but these were recommended in the class I took and are the only kind I have made. Before doing anything else get a top bar and run a pocket knife or X-Acto knife down the wedge and break it off of the top bar. In the picture you can see it is already removed. There will be little pieces left where the wedge splits off. I like to shave those down with the knife as much as possible so the foundation fits better. I do a bunch of these at a time so this step goes faster.

Step 2 - The Tools
The list of tools you will need: knife (mentioned above), wood glue, small square, a junk piece of wood block, pliers, stapler, rubber mallet, tack hammer, small (5/8" I think) and large (1 1/4" x 17) brads. I also use a glue bottle holder that I made. When the bottle gets half empty or more it keeps the glue at the tip so you don't have to keep shaking it down. It is a 6 inch piece of 1x4 with a 30 degree cut one inch from the end that goes half inch deep through and a piece of thin scrap wood (mine was from a clementine box). If you want one and don't have access to a table saw or don't know how to use one let me know and I might be able to whip one up for you. They are handy whenever you use glue.

You will need a top bar, bottom bar, and 2 end bars to make each frame. You don't need to put the foundation in until you want to put the frame into the hive body but when you do you will need a piece of foundation, 4 bobby pins (for medium frames like I use, 8 for deep frames), and 3 or 4 staples.

Step 3 - Side Bar Holes
The very first time I made frames I made probably 24 or so and then put in the foundation. What I didn't realize is that the holes in the end bars that you put the pins through are almost never drilled out very well. So this is my secret step you won't find in other instructions. Take a nail that you would use to put together a hive body, grip it in your pliers and push it through each hole in the end bar. Twist it around a couple of times and then pull it back out. Remove any slivers that are left around the hole. As in removing the wedge from the top bar, I do a bunch of these before actually putting the rest of the frames together.

Step 4 - Glue Together
Take your wood glue and put a generous amount in the notches in the top and bottom of the end bars where the top bar and bottom bar will fit into it. Use a generous amount of glue. It will leak out when you put the pieces together but the bees won't care and the frame will last longer. Put the top bar upside down on your work place. Push the end bars onto it at the end notches. Put the bottom bar into the notches in the end bars. The wedge in the bottom bar should be facing the top bar. I like to tap it with the rubber mallet to make sure the top and bottom bars and well seated.

Step 5 - Square It Up
Place the frame top bar down. Now take your small square and make sure the frame is 90 degrees on both sides of the bottom bar. Every now and again the notches in either the top or bottom bars are not cut correctly and the frame will not come out 90 degrees. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do about that. Being square will make it easier (especially in deep bodies) to lift the frames out of the hive bodies without killing bees that happen to be on the sides by scraping them against the hive body as you pull it out. It is bad enough to kill a few bees, but if the queen is scurrying away and you squish her you may loose the colony.

Step 6 - Nailing the Bottom Bar
While the frame is still sitting with the top bar down take 2 of the longer brads and nail them through the bottom bar into the end bar. Make sure to place them in the center of each side of the divider split of the bottom bar. The wood used to make the frames are generally pretty light pine. Occasionally you will get a more dense piece or really unfortunately have to nail through a knot in the wood. The brads can be pretty easy to bend in these cases when you hit them off center. If you do this you have 3 options depending on how far the brad is bent and how deep it is before it bent. These are: straighten it out with the pliers and try to continue nailing, pull the brad out with the pliers, or if the brad is most of the way in just pound the bent portion down as far as possible. The last option should be your last resort as it will result in a less sturdy frame.

Step 7 - Nailing the Top Bar
Now turn the frame over an rest it on the bottom bar. Nail two of the long brads through the top bar into the end bars. In this case if the brads bend you have one more choice - since there is more area in the top bar you can nail a third brad.

Step 8 - Providing Extra Strength
To make your frames last longer you can give them a bit of extra strength by nailing a short brad through the end bar and into the top bar at approximately 45 degree angle. Make sure to get it in from the edge far enough so you don't split the end bar or top bar but not so far that you drive it into the empty spot where the wedge is taken out of the top bar. These little brads are harder to hold to get started. I know when I am done making frames for the day when I hit my finger and thumb as much as the brad! Concentration is key not only in the apiary but also in the workshop.

Step 9 - Adding Foundation
Now peel the paper off a piece of foundation and position it into the frame. Notice which way the wires are bent at the top of the foundation and be sure to place it such that these wires will be positioned where the wedge has been removed. I find it is easiest to get the bottom of the foundation into the slot in the bottom bar first so that it will go down far enough to sit comfortably in the frame. Make sure it is nice and flat with no waves.

Step 10 - Staple Foundation Now get the wedge piece and place it back where it was removed from the top bar. Push it back as far as possible so it will be flush with the rest of the top bar. Again position the frame on its top bar and with the stapler put 3 staples into the wedge to hold the foundation.


Step 11 - Pin Foundation
Since you have made the holes in the end bars nice and clean back in step 3 you can more easily slide in the bobby pins without tearing the foundation. Don't worry that they stick out a bit. The bees will build cells over them anyway and usually on the sides they will be filled with either honey or pollen so they won't mess up the brood area. Even if they do, it will only be a few cells per frame.


You're done! The frames are ready to be put into the hive bodies. Make sure and space them correctly. If they are too close the bees will build comb between two frames and you will screw up the honey comb or kill brood when you have to separate or pull them out of the hive body. If they are too far apart the bees will try to fill the space by building another piece of comb between the two frames, again causing loss of honey or killing brood. Plus when the bees are building comb where it is not supposed to be they are wasting energy when they could be doing something more productive. Take your time and do things right. My first year I have done things bad enough that hopefully I have learned at least a few lessons for next year.